Welcoming a Baby in the City of Light

Parenting Adventures in Paris

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There we were, standing on Avenue des Invalides for what felt like an eternity—twenty minutes to be exact—waiting for a bus that seemed to have taken a detour to the North Pole. It was one of those frigid January days, and I couldn’t shake the worry that my five-month-old, little Sophie, wasn’t warm enough despite being swaddled in her snowsuit and wrapped in a cozy blanket. She resembled a miniature Michelin man, and I was hopping from foot to foot, pushing her stroller in circles to keep the tears at bay.

Finally, the bus rolled up, but my hopes were quickly dashed. I positioned myself at the back door, where strollers are supposed to board easily. Yet, the door remained stubbornly shut. A man in a sharp suit gestured to the driver, urging him to open the door for me. Still, nothing. Confused, I wheeled Sophie to the front entrance and signaled the driver, who simply shook his head in disapproval.

“No?” I thought, incredulous. “I’m standing here with a stroller and you won’t let me on?” The driver opened the front door and shot me a look that said it all: “There are already two strollers on board. You’ll have to wait for the next bus.” Are you kidding? This was the coldest day of the year, and waiting outside with a baby was not an option!

With a wave of frustration, I took off down the street, my stomach churning. My home was a solid 45-minute walk away, and the metro? Forget it. There was no way I could lug this oversized stroller down the stairs and through the turnstile. My heart raced, fueled by panic rather than the brisk pace I was setting. If I were alone, I might enjoy the walk, but all I could think about was keeping my precious baby warm.

What kind of mother was I, dragging her out in this bone-chilling weather? Sure, we were in Paris, but it felt like the Arctic. Even with her snowsuit and blanket, I fretted over her little face, exposed to the elements. I should have kept us cozy indoors instead of seeking out social interaction. Sure, people live in much colder climates—like Minnesota, where I bet moms drive heated minivans instead of pushing strollers in the snow. And Alaska? I’m sure they plug in their vehicles to keep them from freezing!

Yet, here I was, racing down Avenue des Invalides, wishing I could hibernate like a bear until spring. At least it wasn’t raining. Just when I was about to give up hope, I spotted the next bus and jogged over. This time, the back door opened, and I managed to squeeze the beast of a stroller inside, parking it in the designated “poussette” section.

The bus was packed, a rush-hour sardine can. I glanced at my unstamped ticket and realized there was no way I could fight my way to the front to validate it. The bus swayed violently, throwing everyone from side to side. I secured the stroller’s brakes and held tightly onto the handle, unwilling to leave my baby unattended in this rocking chaos. I’d wait until the crowd thinned out a bit.

As I pondered my predicament, a hand tapped my shoulder. “Madame, votre billet?” I turned to see a stern woman in a navy uniform glaring at me. I offered her my unstamped ticket, and her expression darkened.

“This ticket is not stamped. You have not validated it,” she said, her tone icy.

“I couldn’t leave the stroller while the bus is so crowded and swaying,” I responded, trying to sound as American as possible.

“This is an infraction of the rules. C’est interdit!” she shot back.

I pointed to Sophie, who was happily cooing at the stern lady, who, quite frankly, needed a lesson in smiling at babies. “I have a ticket! How am I supposed to validate it when the machine is at the front of the bus, and I have a baby in a stroller?”

“Madame, you must validate your ticket,” she said, sounding like a broken record.

I felt my frustration boiling. How could she expect me to leave my infant unattended? I wanted to scream that the ticket machine should be at the back of the bus! But instead, I took a deep breath and plastered on a smile. “I didn’t realize it was prohibited. I’m just visiting, and this is my first time on the bus. I bought a ticket and didn’t know it needed to be validated right away.”

She scrutinized me, as if weighing my fate. “I will forgive this infraction this time. This is your warning. Validate your ticket next time.”

Relieved, I was finally ready to get off. “Merci, Madame,” I said, hastily unlocking the stroller and navigating through the crowd.

Once outside, I took a deep breath of the cold air, still shaking from a mix of anger and embarrassment. As I hurried down Avenue du Maine toward home, Sophie bounced along in the stroller, blissfully unaware of my stress.

By the time I climbed the two flights of stairs to our apartment, the floodgates opened and I burst into tears. Why were people so unfriendly here? Why did no one smile? I felt utterly alone.

Looking down at Sophie, who was now latched onto me for a feeding, I felt exhausted. My hopes for a playgroup to make friends had only deepened my feelings of isolation. The encounter with the transport officer was just the cherry on top of a rough day. If only Sophie and I could hibernate through winter and wake up to a brighter spring.

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Summary:

In a frigid January in Paris, a mother struggles with the challenges of navigating public transportation with her baby. Encountering a stern transport officer, she grapples with feelings of vulnerability, isolation, and the desire for connection in a new city. Ultimately, the experience highlights the complexities of motherhood and the longing for warmth—both physical and emotional.

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